on a leisurely, unstructured journey into
  il paese dell’anima — “the country of the soul.”
   

. . .We call it

 
 
     
 

A Taste of Umbria
May 7–16, 2012

Summary
Itinerary
Accommodations
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Umbria — “the green heart of Italy” — is a land of lush rolling hills, ancient hilltop villages, delectable wines, and sumptuous regional cuisine. Its intriguing mix of history, art, and culture serve as the perfect complement to its fine food and wine.

Our ten-day tour begins with three nights in the ancient hilltop city of Orvieto. Then we transfer, for the final six nights, to Borgo Spagnoli, a beautifully restored 14th century medieval hamlet overlooking Lake Trasimeno. From the borgo, the picturesque cities of Cortona, Perugia, and Assisi — with their ancient medieval historic centers — are within easy reach for our day excursions.

The Italian culinary tradition is unrivaled, and Umbria produces fine wines, world-famous truffles, exceptional prosciutto, salami, pecorino cheese, and some of the best olive oil in the world. We will dine at carefully selected local restaurants and sample the wines and other local products of the region at four carefully chosen wineries.

 Treat yourself to a sensuous feast of new scents and sights and sounds and tastes. Slow down. Linger over a cappuccino at an outdoor café and watch the morning’s gathering light suffuse the piazza. Spend two hours at meals, savoring the simple, fresh, delicious food, lovingly prepared, and the sultry, luscious wines of the different regions. Join the locals on market day as they shout greetings to one another or haggle with vendors — animated gestures punctuating the lilting, melodious language. And sink deeply into a centuries-old way of living in the world that returns us to things in human scale and nourishes and refreshes the human spirit.

 
  See more about Stefania and comments from past travelers.  
 

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At a Glance

Dates: Monday, May 7 through Wednesday, May 16, 2012
    (10 days/9 nights)

Cost:    $2,795 per person (Double Occupancy)
$800 single occupancy supplement (estimate)

Included meals: All breakfasts, 2 lunches, 5 dinners

Wine tastings at Decugnano dei Barbi, Azienda Agricola Mezzetti, Goretti Gisberto, and Castello di Magione.

Itinerary at a glance:
Orvieto (3 nights) ~ Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini
Lake Trasimeno (6 nights) ~ Borgo Spagnoli

Air arrangements:  Not included

 

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Accommodations

 

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“Converted in 1997 from a 16th-century palazzo, the family-run Piccolomini is simply the best hotel in town... It retains some palatial grandeur in echoey salons and the remnants of decorative frescoes, but the rooms tend toward the elegantly simple, with missionary-style wood furnishings, compact bathrooms, and modernized comforts (some suites have plush touches like heated towel racks and canopied beds).

“The ground-floor rooms have high vaulted ceilings, while those on the upper floors often have views across lichen-splayed roof tiles to the countryside. The basement breakfast room is carved out of the living tufa.” — Frommer’s Review

Located in in Piazza Ranieri in the quieter quarter of Orvieto, it is just a short walk from the Duomo and near the modern lifts and escalators that connect this hilltop city to the Foro Boario parking area.

 

Situated high above the eastern shore of Lake Trasimeno, Borgo Spagnoli commands a stunning view of lake, the largest on the Italian peninsula south of the Po River.

This rocky 14th-century Umbrian hamlet — or borgo — was originally a working farm. The grove of olive trees which washes down the surrounding slopes yielded a famous olive oil still in full production. On the farm, the Spagnoli family also bred angora rabbits, whose fur was used in the sweaters knit in nearby Perugia.

From the borgo's location near the border between Tuscany and Umbria, the picturesque cities of Cortona, Perugia, and Assisi — with their ancient medieval historic centers — are an easy drive of 45 minutes or less.  

The restoration of the borgo has been beautifully done. Each of the 6 apartments is completely private with its own distinct color scheme. The kitchens are equipped with all the essential appliances, barbecue grills are available in the outside area, and each bathroom has a washing machine.

 

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A Taste of Umbria — Itinerary
May 7–16, 2012

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Day 1: Arrival in Orvieto in Umbria

(Monday, May 7)

ACTIVITIES: Arrival in Rome, transfer by motor coach to Orvieto. Settle in and relax before meeting for an informal gathering and reception to welcome you to Italy.

  Dinner: Trattoria La Palomba  Lodging: Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini

Ceiling of the Duomo di Orvieto

Day 2: Visit to Il Palazzo del Gusto

(Tuesday, May 8)

ACTIVITIES: Short orientation followed by a walk through ancient streets of Orvieto that ends at its magnificent Duomo that dates from 1290 and its 15th-century Cappella Nuova with its magnificent fresco cycle, begun by Fra Angelico and completed by Luca Signorelli.

* * SPECIAL EVENT * * In the afternoon, we visit Il Palazzo del Gusto, the headquarters of Cittaslow, the international network of municipalities connected to Slow Food. Cittaslow pioneered a development model that is studied internationally for its focus on economic and social sustainability, biodiversity, and cultural identity. It will not be all for the head, however, as we will take part in a cooking class offered in the modern kitchen facilities of Cittaslow for “amateur” tourists interested in learning Umbrian cooking.

  Lodging: Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini

Day 3: La Badia di Orvieto

(Wednesday, May 9)

ACTIVITIES: FREE TIME with opportunities of sightseeing on your own of Museo del Duomo, Underground Orvieto, and Pozzo di San Patrizio (St. Patrick's Well)..

This Benedictine monastery,
dates back to the 6th century.

* * SPECIAL EVENT * * Steeped in history and legends, La Badia di Orvieto was built in the 6th century as a Benedictine abbey. The structure of the ancient abbey remains today and has been sympathetically restored and converted into a family-run hotel and restaurant which exemplifies Italian traditions both in terms of hospitality and recipes handed down through generations. Enjoy homemade salami, local cheeses, and mouth-watering Umbrian dishes which include homemade fettuccine, taglionlini with black truffles, roasted baby pig, rosemary foccaccia, and an abundance of vegetables. The red wine is full bodied and delicious, perfectly complementing the robust dishes, and the white wine is of course Orvieto Classico, clean, crisp, and refreshing. [click here for source]

  Dinner: La Badia di Orvieto  Lodging: Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini

Day 4: Transfer to Borgo Spagnoli

(Thursday, May 10)

ACTIVITIES: During the free morning you can take in Orvieto's lively farmers market in nearby Piazza del Popolo, where you can sample the local food and enjoy the spectacle. We depart at noon for Montecologola, stopping first at the Decugnano dei Barbi estate — a 30-minute drive from Orvieto — for a wine tasting, then at the hill town of Deruta, famous as a center for the production of painted ceramics since the early Middle Ages.

The Decugnano dei Barbi estate

* * SPECIAL EVENT * * The Decugnano estate — situated in the hills above Lago di Corbara with splendid views towards Orvieto and its beautiful duomo — traces its existence back to the thirteenth century. Bought in 1973 by wine merchant Claudio Barbi, it has been lovingly restored, and the wines have recently enjoyed a makeover as well. Several years ago Claudio, with son Enzo, decided to slash production by two-thirds and rework the blends to raise the bar in quality terms. The result: the award-winning 2009 ll Bianco — a beautifully crafted wine with an elegance often lacking in Umbrian whites. [click here for source]

  Dinner: At the borgo  Lodging: Borgo Spagnoli

Tower at Borgo Spagnoli

Day 5: Picnic on Lake Transimeno

(Friday, May 11)

ACTIVITIES: We spend a leisurely day exploring the nooks and crannies of Borgo Spagnoli, a beautifully restored medieval hamlet. The borgo, perched above its groves of olive trees, was originally a working farm. Besides the famous olive oil that is still in full production, the Spagnoli family bred angora rabbits for the sweaters knit in their nearby Perugian factory. Fascinating reminders of the hamlet’s 14th-century origins abound — like the Chiesa di Santa Maria Annunziata and the massive walls which shelter and encircle the hamlet and which open up to surprising, spectacular views of Lake Trasimeno below. Bring your camera (and, for those so inclined, your sketch pad) with you to our midday picnic at the lake.

  Lunch: Picnic at Lago Trasimeno  Dinner: Miralago  

                                     Lodging: Borgo Spagnoli

A short ferry rides takes us to Isola Maggiore

Day 6: Ferry excursion to Isola Maggiore

(Saturday, May 12)

ACTIVITIES: A morning excursion takes us to Isola Maggiore, Lake Trasimeno’s largest island and the only one with a full-time population. The tradition of Irish lace-making — one of the island’s points of pride — is still practiced by many women of this village that retains its charming 15th-century fishing village architecture. In 1213, St. Francis of Assisi visited the island to make a Lenten retreat; an interesting chapel commemorates his safe arrival during a storm on the lake. In the afternoon we visit the vineyard and cellars of Azienda Agricola Mezzetti to sample the wine and local products.

* * SPECIAL EVENT * * The love of nature and the fruits of the land is everywhere visible in the carefully tended vineyards and olive groves of the Mezzetti estate, in operation since 1960. We will visit the vineyards, the cellar, and the mill before returning to the Agriturismo La Casa Colonica to sample the wines — which are made from Sangiovese, Merlot, and Cabernet grapes, producing wines ruby red in color with a delicate aroma and a dry, harmonious, and pleasant tannin flavor — and local products like bruschetta, cold cuts, cheeses, and desserts.

  Lodging: Borgo Spagnoli

Visiting Stefania and Glenn at
their home was a high point
for most on our 2010 tour.

Day 7: Visit to the artist's studio

(Sunday, May 13)

ACTIVITIES: We will leave in mid-morning to visit Glenn‘s studio and Stefania‘s home, where we will be treated to a lovingly prepared luncheon repast. There will be time to hear Glenn talk about his work — on display in their home and garden and the sculpture garden created beside the home — and to take in the charms of the ancient hilltop village of Agello. We continue in the afternoon with a tour and wine tasting at the Goretti estate.

* * SPECIAL EVENT * * The approach of four generations of Goretti vintners to their wine making has combined a deep respect and appreciation of the traditional practices typical of the Umbrian culture with the most sophisticated modern experimentation. As a consequence, the focus has been on selecting the typical grapes from Umbria (Grechetto, Trebbiano, Sangiovese) as well as introducing grapes (such as a Chardonnay) which are not widely spread throughout Umbria. The estate is located just outside Perugia amid rolling Umbrian hills dominated by a 14th-century tower which serves as the emblem on the Goretti wine labels.

  Lunch: At the artist's studio  Lodging: Borgo Spagnoli

Day 8: Excursion to Cortona

(Monday, May 14)

ACTIVITIES: Keen interest in Cortona, one of the oldest hill towns in Tuscany, has been revived by the popularity of Francis Mayes‘s book, Under the Tuscan Sun. Cortona's medieval streets are pleasant to wander through, and you'll be rewarded with fabulous views of the countryside along the medieval town walls. Its early Etruscan history is traced in the Museo dell’Accademia Etrusca, which we will visit. Before returning to Borgo Spagnoli at the end of the day, we will stop at Castello dei Cavalieri di Malta (Castle of the Knights of Malta) for a wine tasting.

Castello dei Cavalieri di Malta

* * SPECIAL EVENT * * Castello dei Cavalieri di Malta has a rich history. Built in the 12th century to shelter pilgrims on their way to Rome or to Jerusalem, the castle was subjected to sieges by a number of popes during the Middle Ages and was the seat of the conspiracy organized by Italian noblemen against Cesare Borgia which Machiavelli chronicles in The Prince. This history and the precious frescoes that adorn its walls make the castle a wonderful venue in which to enjoy the wines of its farm, which covers an area of 1325 hectares (3275 acres), and watch the sun set over Lake Trasimeno.

  Lodging: Borgo Spagnoli

Day 9: Excursion to Perugia or Assisi

(Tuesday, May 15)

ACTIVITIES: Transport will be provided for those who wish to spend this final day of the tour exploring Perugia — the lively medieval walled hill town with historic buildings, people-filled squares, and modern shops, a storied university (founded in 1308), and rich Etruscan artifacts — or Assisi — the birthplace of St. Clare and St. Francis, who founded the Franciscan religious order in the town in 1208, and the destination of pilgrims from across the world. We will conclude the tour with a celebratory meal at Castello dell'Oca.

  Dinner: Castello dell'Oca  Lodging: Borgo Spagnoli

Day 10: RETURN TO U.S. or Extend your stay in Florence or Rome

(Wednesday, May 16)

Courtesy reservations can be made for any who wish to extend their Italian sojourn with a stay in Florence (at the Strozzi Palace Hotel) or in Rome (at the Residenza di Ripetta).


 
 

View photos from our 2010 Tour!

Click below to download slide show (18.5 MB)

 
 
   
 

Traveling with Stefania
4 Wellesley Place, Chapel Hill, NC 27517
(919) 403-0432

 

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